In Search of Leatherback Turtles

Leatherback turtles, the world’s largest turtle species, spend their lives traveling the tropical and subtropical seas of the world. But, amazingly, when they are ready to lay their eggs, they return to the very same beach where they were born. Lucky for us, from February to July, hundreds of these Leatherbacks return to the warm beaches of Gandoca, Costa Rica, to build their nests. The Gandoca Refuge is at the southernmost tip of Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, about 15 miles as the crow flies from our home. By road it’s more like 50 miles accessible by the highway through Hone Creek to Panama or alternatively by unpaved roads parallel to the beach then over the mountain meeting up with the highway near the Panamanian border.

There are several tour companies in Puerto Viejo that offer all-inclusive trips there but, since we now have a car, we decided to take the drive ourselves. We easily found the small sign on the highway indicating the turn off. Another mile or so down the rural road we came across the free-standing ATM and a fork in the road with a turtle picture and arrow pointing to the left. A few more miles through Del Monte banana plantations, over one small sketchy bridge, and past several monkey trees and we were now in the very, very small community of Gandoca. We continued straight through town to a pristine palm studded beach. At the beach is a prominent sign informing visitors that no one is allowed on the beach between 5 PM and 5 AM during nesting season without a guide. The beaches are patrolled by community volunteers This is one of the many ways that the community protects and preserves the nesting turtles.

We soon found a hostel right next to the beach, procured a guide for the evening and had a bite to eat at a small “soda” - snack bar - in the town. At 8 PM we met our guide on the beach by the “turtle egg nursery” - at this particular turtle nesting area, the locals and volunteers place a plastic bag under the turtle as she lays her eggs. They then bring the eggs to the designated nursery area where they are re-buried in the sand and continually watched until they hatch. We waited for the turtles to come. We waited until midnight but no leatherbacks showed up. Early the next morning we took a stroll along the beach and we able to identify 3 different sets of “turtle tracks.” I guess they came very, very late. Although we were a little disappointed at not being able to see the nesting turtles we had a great trip. We will try again!!!